Exploring the Rich Legacy of Bourbon:
A Personal Journey Through America's Spirit
by Steve Gentry
Winston Churchill once wittily remarked about his newfound love for bourbon during the war: “The water was not fit to drink. To make it palatable, we had to add whiskey. By diligent effort, I learned to like it.” If you're a fellow bourbon enthusiast, you are part of a growing community that contributed to the sale of over 74 million cases of bourbon in the U.S. in 2023 alone. As my own bourbon collection grew through exploration, I found great joy in sharing it with like-minded friends. This passion led to the creation of King Bourbon, my independently published periodical, and writing for Chicago Wine Press has given me another satisfying outlet to share my love for bourbon.
What is Bourbon?
What truly sets bourbon apart from other whiskeys? The answer is simple: ABC. A is for American — bourbon is legally defined as a uniquely American product. B is for Barrels — bourbon must be aged in new charred oak barrels. C is for Corn — the mash bill (grain mix) must consist of at least 51% corn, with the remainder usually made up of rye and malted barley. Though bourbon doesn't have to come from Bourbon County or even Kentucky, most of it still does. Tennessee whiskey, such as Jack Daniel's, meets most bourbon criteria but uses a charcoal filtration process (the Lincoln County Process), so it avoids the bourbon label for marketing purposes.
The Birthplace of Bourbon
It remains speculative whether Bourbon County, Kentucky, was the true birthplace of bourbon, though Kentucky is widely acknowledged as its home. Whiskey played a crucial role in America’s early years; George Washington was a significant whiskey distiller, and the whiskey tax became the first source of federal revenue. Bourbon whiskey, as we know it, emerged in Kentucky during the 1700s, though no one can definitively claim to have invented it.
Bourbon's Ties to History
Bourbon connects us not only to American history but also to my own family’s heritage. My father, Kentucky Colonel Olin Gentry, was a fraternity brother of Booker Noe, the grandson of Jim Beam and a prominent figure in the bourbon world. Noe’s statue stands outside the Jim Beam distillery in Clermont, Kentucky. My grandfather, a renowned Kentucky horseman, led three different farms to victories in the Kentucky Derby, the same race known for its mint juleps, a signature bourbon-based cocktail. As I delved into bourbon’s history, I uncovered unexpected ties to my Jewish heritage on my mother’s side.
Bourbon: From Affordable to Luxe
The world of bourbon offers a wide spectrum of experiences, from budget-friendly options to rare, luxury bottles. The Kentucky Bourbon Trail, with its distillery tours and exclusive releases, offers a must-see pilgrimage for bourbon lovers. There are private travel experiences, luxury book releases, festivals, and even rare bottles that cater to those willing to invest. For example, Woodford Reserve recently released a limited-edition, thrice-barreled bourbon in a crystal bottle and leather box, priced at $15,000, to commemorate the 150th running of the Kentucky Derby.
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However, great, affordable bourbon is widely available. For under $20, you can find a 750 ml bottle of Jim Beam’s white label, the world’s best-selling bourbon, perfect for mixing cocktails. Beam’s upgraded black label, priced slightly higher, offers a solid sipping experience at seven years aged and 90 proof. Wild Turkey 101, a rye-forward bourbon at a similar price, is also a popular choice. Maker’s Mark, with its iconic red wax seal, offers a smooth drinking experience, and bottles can still be found for under $30. Other affordable gems include Buffalo Trace, America’s oldest continuously operating distillery, and Evan Williams Bottled-in-Bond, produced by Heaven Hill, America’s oldest family-owned distillery.
The Bottle-in-Bond Act: A Legacy of Quality
The Bottled-in-Bond Act of 1897, America’s first consumer protection law, established a certification for whiskeys produced by one distillery in a single distilling season. These whiskeys must be aged for at least four years under government supervision and bottled at 100 proof. My grandfather was an avid believer in this standard and only drank bourbon that was Bottled-in-Bond. Even today, it remains the highest standard for bottled spirits.
New Players in the Bourbon Scene
While bourbon’s established brands proudly lean on their long heritage, new players continue to emerge. One standout is New Riff Distilling in Newport, Kentucky, just across the river from Cincinnati. Known for its award-winning Bottled-in-Bond offerings and fresh, community-driven approach, New Riff is quickly making a name for itself. Similarly, Chicago’s Koval Distillery is leading the charge for craft distillers, producing spirits that balance creativity with exceptional quality.
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Many other craft distilleries are making their mark across the country. In Chicago, Judson and Moore distillery catches attention with its grain-to-glass approach, while Texas-based Still Austin has impressed with its bold packaging and creative mash bills, aided by the unique aging climate in the southern heat.
The Rise of Barrel Finishing
A relatively recent development in the world of bourbon is the process of "finishing" bourbon in additional barrels, such as toasted barrels or those previously used to store other products like wine. This process, long used in Scotch production, was popularized by Angel’s Envy and has now become a widely embraced innovation. These “finished” bourbons have added a new layer of complexity and flavor, opening a new frontier in the bourbon world. On the other hand, flavored bourbons like apple and cherry remain popular, often serving as a gateway for new bourbon drinkers, though they are less favored by connoisseurs.
The Bourbon Fronteir
With so many variations in mash bills, aging processes, proofs, and finishes, bourbon offers a rich frontier for both new and experienced explorers. Whether you're seeking familiar favorites or new discoveries, there’s always more to learn and savor. I look forward to meeting you out there on this exciting journey.
Steve Gentry is a Chicago-based attorney with deep roots in Cincinnati and Kentucky. His independently published periodical, King Bourbon, can be purchased online at kingbourbon.myshopify.com. Follow King Bourbon on Facebook and Instagram (@kingbourbonpress). You can contact Steve at steviegeebies@gmail.com.