People often ask what are my favorite bottles that I have opened through the years. While I have tasted many stunning and inspiring wines through the decades, I usually reminisce about the occasions where I have shared wines that I have cellared with close friends and acquaintances during intimate dinners and holiday celebrations. These meaningful wines and close friendships are easy to recall as they have invariably stood the test of time.

There are few experiences more heartfelt than gatherings at the holiday table, where the wintry weather contrasts the warmth we share with close acquaintances along with a remarkable wine. Occasionally, I repurchase a wine, only to remember times that have long faded into memories. Sharing these wines during the holidays elevates the moment, not to impress others but to honor our friendships that have matured through the years. The beauty of older wines lies not only in their taste, but in the journey that has brought us together.

Whether you have a cellar or are just wiling to purchase an older wine for the holidays, there is a story behind each bottle. These wines can offer graceful elegance and refined, silken textures that will add pleasure and harmony to any dinner table. The youthful tannins will have softened with age offering tempered fruit and seasoned spices that unfold with each sip. They remind us to slow down and savor their artistic beauty.

There are treasures to be found within all countries at affordable prices. Examples from France, California, Oregon, Italy and Spain are easily discovered at many retailers or in some cases you may want to secure a special bottle from a online merchant. If you begin your journey in Bordeaux you may want to explore an older second wine from a leading chateau, as they are typically sourced from young vines or are from declassified fruit. This style of wine became popularized in the 1980’s as prices were rising for classified growth Bordeaux and consumers began looking for lower cost alternatives. These wines did not made the cut for the estate’s primary label, but still have the staying power to age gracefully for several years given the right vintage. These wines are a quiet reflection of the estate’s terroir and a window into the soul of the chateau. Purchasing good vintages can be equally important for ageability with standouts from years such as 2005, 2009, 2010, 2015, 2016 and 2019. These last three vintages, given the right property, should reveal enough maturity with a generous amount of fruit to effortlessly pair with any holiday meal. Consistent second wines include La Dame de Montrose, Les Tourelles de Longueville, Les Pagodes de Cos, Reserve de la Comtesse, Le Petit Lion de Marquis de las Cases, Le Petit Haut Lafitte, Virginie de Valandraud and others. If you are moved to spurge slightly on your budget, there are many offerings from the Margaux appellation that can be enchanting at an early age including Chateau Prieurie-Lichine, Chateau Lascombes, Chateau Kirwan, Chateau Giscours and Chateau Malescoy St-Exupery. If you are inclined to drink a sweeter wine such as Sauternes, La Chartreuse de Coutet from Chateau Coutet and Lions de Suduiraut from Chateau Suduiraut are reliable alternatives.

Learning from the Bordeaux model, California also began crafting second wines, although they are somewhat less common in the market. These are offered at higher prices than their Bordeaux counterparts with Napanook from Dominus, Overature from Opus One, Lyndenhurst from Spottswoode and Adaptation from Odette. Of course, cult brands such as Harlan, Bond and Dalle Valle have there own second wines, but these will put you well beyond your holiday budget. In California, most older vintages have been fairly reliable with a few exceptions.

Many wineries also produced second labels, which is a totally different breed, as the fruit is sourced from outside the estate at a lower cost. These wines may not resemble the personality or distinctiveness of the winery. A new label is designed for these bottlings usually without reference to the producer. 

In Italy, there are two well-known Super Tuscan wineries in the coastal region of Bolgheri that produce second wines. Super Tuscan wines don’t conform to strict traditional Italian DOC/DOCG regulations and can be blends of international grape varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and perhaps the native Italian grape of Sangiovese. Ornellaia crafts a second wine called Le Serre Nouve dell’Ornellaia along with a third wine designated Le Volte dell’Ornellaia that are both sourced from estate vineyards. They have some of the same personality traits of the estate with the Le Volte being more accessible at an early age. Lucente is the second wine of Luce from Tenuta Luce della Vite in Montalcino and is a blend of Sangiovese and Merlot. There are many other choices with regard to affordable, mature wines from Italy. Nebbiolo from the northern region of Piedmont, Montepulciano D’Abruzzo and Chianti Classico Riserva can mature gracefully offering muted red fruits, dried rose petals and tobacco after five to seven years of cellaring.

In Spain, Clio is a concentrated, powerful second wine of Bodegas el Nido from the Toro region. Well-known Flor de Pingus is the second wine from Domino de Pingus in Ribera del Duero, but this wine will be a costly option. The affordable Gran Riserva Riojas of Spain are released after five years of aging (two years in oak and three years in  bottle) and usually reveal mature edges and textures making them immediately accessible on release.

So as another year comes to a close, gather your dearest friends and family together opening a wine that has quietly waited for this very moment. In the end, perhaps that is what the holidays are truly about — the sharing of things that have taken time to mature. Just as a great vintage needs patience, so too are friendships that are nurtured and deepen with time reminding us of days past and present.