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Cartizze:
The Summit Where Prosecco Finds Its Voice
By W Peter Hoyne
Discussing the sparkling wines of Prosecco may not be a revealing topic considering many view this beverage as a casual alternative to sparklers from California, Spain and even perhaps those from Champagne, France. The truth about this libation is that it has been misunderstood and unserious for years. Prosecco is one of those unique wines that became famous by accident and then spent decades apologizing for it. Even with global economic challenges, it remains the leading sparkling wine in Italy with the US overshadowing other countries consuming over 30% of this bubbly. The reality is that this social beverage is an “affordable luxury’ that reflects our relaxed way of life.
Most are unaware of Prosecco’s narrative. It slipped quietly into glasses across Europe and America’s landscape, refreshingly cold, modest in alcohol, unconcerned with whether anyone found it profound, as was the case with its counterpart from Champagne. It is recognized under the name Glera, the floral, high acid green grape from where it derived its flavor profile. The effervescence for Prosecco primarily occurs during the “charmat method” with a secondary fermentation developing in pressurized stainless-steel tanks rather than individual bottles.
Prosecco DOC originates from an expansive growing area of nearly 90,000 acres in northeast Italy within the provinces of Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Production of Prosecco DOC is over 51 million cases. Above the Prosecco DOC is the more refined and noteworthy growing region of Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG. This Prosecco is crafted from the 21,000 acres of hilly countryside between the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, south of the Alps. Exemplary Prosecco originates from a 267-acre sub-zone within Valdobbiadene designated as Valdobbiadene Di Superiore Cartizze DOCG.
Quality variation within Prosecco is real and increasingly important. A pyramid of five quality levels distinguishes its level of prestige. The DOC area covers a broad swath of flatland vineyards where machine harvesting and higher volumes dominate these straightforward, entry level sparklers. By contrast, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG represents a noteworthy elevated level of Prosecco. The hills of Cartizze articulate the pinnacle expression of Prosecco. Steep slopes, hand harvesting, and lower yields translate directly into greater aromatic intensity and structural definition. These are not merely “better Proseccos,” they are the ultimate expressions of Glera.
Narrowing the lens, Cartizze is recognized as the “grand cru” of Prosecco and a category capable of seriousness. Its historic significance dates back to the 16th century, although its borders were not formalized until 1969. A modest hilltop conclave of steep slopes offers a generous exposure of sunlight from the south balanced by the winds from the Dolomites. Within this backdrop are the most expensive vineyards in all of Italy, providing a microclimate perfect for the maturation of the Glera grape balanced by fresh acidity and delicate natural sugars. The ancient glacier sub-soils from the Dolomites and marine sediments are rich in sandstone and clay resulting in a multidimensional expression of Prosecco from Cartizze.
The distinguished Proseccos from Cartizze are pale yellow with perfumed floral aromatics of acacia and elderflower. They express brilliant elements of lemon oil, white melon and autumn apple skins with a light effervescent along with a whiff of sweetness. Their mid-palates are cushioned with soft, rounded edges and trace of minerality. While Prosecco are sparkling wines of immediacy, they can also be consumed a few years after release. What differentiates Prosecco from Cartizze is not intensity, but an alignment of fresh fruits, acidity, and texture that seem to move in synchrony.
Today there are 142 proud growers in Cartizze. Producers believe that there is not a quality difference between Champagne and Prosecco from Cartizze, but instead merely a stylistic difference. It is not a status symbol, instead it has quiet confidence that you can easily savor on a warm summer day without pretense. Cartizze is a wine that remembers where it came from and does not wait for the future. It belongs to the moment in front of you, the memory of the last glass poured without reason, the conversation that slows because no one wants it to end.Discussing the sparkling wines of Prosecco may not be a revealing topic considering many view this beverage as a casual alternative to sparklers from California, Spain and even perhaps those from Champagne, France. The truth about this libation is that it has been misunderstood and unserious for years. Prosecco is one of those unique wines that became famous by accident and then spent decades apologizing for it. Even with global economic challenges, it remains the leading sparkling wine in Italy with the US overshadowing other countries consuming over 30% of this bubbly. The reality is that this social beverage is an “affordable luxury’ that reflects our relaxed way of life.
Most are unaware of Prosecco’s narrative. It slipped quietly into glasses across Europe and America’s landscape, refreshingly cold, modest in alcohol, unconcerned with whether anyone found it profound, as was the case with its counterpart from Champagne. It is recognized under the name Glera, the floral, high acid green grape from where it derived its flavor profile. The effervescence for Prosecco primarily occurs during the “charmat method” with a secondary fermentation developing in pressurized stainless-steel tanks rather than individual bottles.
Prosecco DOC originates from an expansive growing area of nearly 90,000 acres in northeast Italy within the provinces of Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Production of Prosecco DOC is over 51 million cases. Above the Prosecco DOC is the more refined and noteworthy growing region of Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG. This Prosecco is crafted from the 21,000 acres of hilly countryside between the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, south of the Alps. Exemplary Prosecco originates from a 267-acre sub-zone within Valdobbiadene designated as Valdobbiadene Di Superiore Cartizze DOCG.
Quality variation within Prosecco is real and increasingly important. A pyramid of five quality levels distinguishes its level of prestige. The DOC area covers a broad swath of flatland vineyards where machine harvesting and higher volumes dominate these straightforward, entry level sparklers. By contrast, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG represents a noteworthy elevated level of Prosecco. The hills of Cartizze articulate the pinnacle expression of Prosecco. Steep slopes, hand harvesting, and lower yields translate directly into greater aromatic intensity and structural definition. These are not merely “better Proseccos,” they are the ultimate expressions of Glera.
Narrowing the lens, Cartizze is recognized as the “grand cru” of Prosecco and a category capable of seriousness. Its historic significance dates back to the 16th century, although its borders were not formalized until 1969. A modest hilltop conclave of steep slopes offers a generous exposure of sunlight from the south balanced by the winds from the Dolomites. Within this backdrop are the most expensive vineyards in all of Italy, providing a microclimate perfect for the maturation of the Glera grape balanced by fresh acidity and delicate natural sugars. The ancient glacier sub-soils from the Dolomites and marine sediments are rich in sandstone and clay resulting in a multidimensional expression of Prosecco from Cartizze.
The distinguished Proseccos from Cartizze are pale yellow with perfumed floral aromatics of acacia and elderflower. They express brilliant elements of lemon oil, white melon and autumn apple skins with a light effervescent along with a whiff of sweetness. Their mid-palates are cushioned with soft, rounded edges and trace of minerality. While Prosecco are sparkling wines of immediacy, they can also be consumed a few years after release. What differentiates Prosecco from Cartizze is not intensity, but an alignment of fresh fruits, acidity, and texture that seem to move in synchrony.
Today there are 142 proud growers in Cartizze. Producers believe that there is not a quality difference between Champagne and Prosecco from Cartizze, but instead merely a stylistic difference. It is not a status symbol, instead it has quiet confidence that you can easily savor on a warm summer day without pretense. Cartizze is a wine that remembers where it came from and does not wait for the future. It belongs to the moment in front of you, the memory of the last glass poured without reason, the conversation that slows because no one wants it to end.
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