IPNC & The Legacy of Pinot Noir
By W Peter Hoyne
The 38th annual International Pinot Noir Celebration (IPNC) commenced on July 26-28 in the heart of Willamette Valley on the Linfield College campus in McMinnville, Oregon. Willamette Valley, Oregon remains the epicenter and premier wine-growing region for Pinot Noir in the United States. There are over 800 wineries that claim residence in Willamette Valley with 60% of their acreage dedicated to Pinot Noir. Referred to by some as “America’s Burgundy” because of the similarities Willamette Valley wines share with their French cousins, it can also be a solemn topic for discussion. Wine author Terry Theise once remarked,” We talk about Cabernet as we talk about sports, but we talk about Pinot Noir as we talk about religion.” Pinot Noir is deeply revered by those attending this yearly pilgrimage which began in 1987. This year's gathering attracted devoted followers as well as novices to a three-day immersive adventure, exploring the diversity and complexity of Pinot Noir as well as Chardonnay, sparkling wine and rose´. Seventy-three wineries collaborated in this year's celebration heralding from wine-growing regions in the United States, Canada, France, Italy, Mexica, South Africa, New Zealand and Australia.
Opening comments for this year's IPNC energized the crowd: “Our secret needs to be told to the world. This is a magical place for Pinot Noir.” Following a leisurely breakfast on the lawn, attendees were invited to vineyard tours or to attend a series of grand seminars. Dignitaries for the seminars included Dominique Lafon (Domaine des Comtes Lafon), Ian Burch (Archery Summit), Megan Gunderson (WALT Wines), Michael Brajkovich (Kumeu River), Naomi Smith (Champagne Laurent-Perrier), and Piero Incisa (CHACRA). One of the seminars titled “Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in Technicolor”, presented by Ian Burch and Dominque Lafon, illustrated the complexities between Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from different terroirs within France and Willamette Valley. The exotic, white-flowered 2018 Domaine Des Comtes Lafon Meursault Desiree was tasted alongside a creamy 2022 Archery Summit’s Summit Vineyard Chardonnay. Afterward, a savory 2017 Domaine Des Comtes Lafon Volnay-Santenots du Milieu was paired against the dark, spice-driven 2021 Archery Summit Arcus Vineyard Pinot Noir. This impressive tasting was followed by a lively discussion and points of view on the differences in style between the growing regions and personal preferences.
On alternate days, participants were guided to the Willamette Valley countryside for winery and vineyard tours followed by a multi-course luncheon presentation. Domaine Willamette at Bernau Estate Vineyard in Dundee Hills hosted a seminar labeled “Unveiling Terroir” where five panelists from distinguished Willamette wineries showcased their Pinot Noirs during a blind tasting.
One of the impressive, small batch producers was La Biblioteca owned by Jay Lee and managing partner James Cahill. Their 2021 Rare Imprint Pinot Noir was among the stars offering a complex potpourri of exotic spices and savory black plums. Of special note, La Biblioteca announced that it is collaborating with winemaker François Millet from Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé in Chambolle-Musigny beginning with the upcoming 2022 vint
Millet’s winemaking philosophy is that you “just let the land speak for itself.” Another standout included the complex and red currant-driven 2021 Willamette Valley Vineyards Vintage 48 Tualatin Hills Pinot Noir. Afterward, winemakers shared their hospitality with presentations of grilled halibut and braised lamb ragu paired with their wines.
At day's end, a courtyard setting under the oak trees on the Linfield campus served as the backdrop for an early evening alfresco tasting of Pinot Noirs from many esteemed producers. Notable examples included the aromatic elegance of the 2021 Benovia Martaella Vineyard Pinot Noir, the violet-scented 2022 Domaine Drouhin Laurene and the extraordinarily complex 2021 Beaux Freres “Beaux Freres Vineyard” Pinot Noir.
The Friday night “Grand Dinner” enlisted the talents of four local chefs who prepared a collection of seasonal ingredients to pair with Pinot Noirs from Willamette Valley. Chase Williams of Black Walnut Inn prepared a confit chicken with summer succotash while Paul Bachand of Pinch Restaurant constructed a wild boar crepinette. Arron Bell, assistant winemaker at Domaine Drouhin, presented a comparison between current and older vintages from Domaine Drouhin and Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune, France.
Saturday evening focused on the much anticipated “Northwest Salmon Bake” where Columbia River King Salmon was posted on large wooden stakes and slowly roasted over alder wood. This evening feast under the stars was complemented by older cherished vintages of Pinot Noir and white wines from the vintners. Music played in the background as everyone savored Pinot Noir’s affinity for food and its ability to age gracefully.
Attendees were slow to rise the next day, but anxiously awaited to convene at the annual sparkling brunch finale on Sunday morning. Laurent-Perrier Cuvee Rose´ Champagne and Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Champagne along with Willamette Valley Sparklers complemented a selection of creative breakfast samplings. Everyone settled back to reflect on their weekend memories and an opportunity to create new friendships while savoring a collection of acclaimed Pinot Noirs from around the globe.
While the upcoming future of IPNC is somewhat uncertain, given the loyalty and dedication of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir enthusiasts, this gathering is certain to be resurrected in some format. A decision will be made in 2025. Future Information about this wine weekend for Pinot Noir lovers is available at www.ipnc.org. Early next year, there will be a day-long event titled an “Oregon Chardonnay Celebration” on February 22, 2025, in Willamette Valley. This event will feature seminars and tastings centered around this grape varietal along with a Grand Tasting featuring 50 Oregon producers.