Magazine of wine 

Where does Madeira come from?

Madeira is the largest of a group of islands lying about 400 miles into the Atlantic Ocean off the
coast of Morocco. When it was discovered, the island was uninhabited. Credit is given to one of
Portugal’s Prince Henry the Navigator’s sailors, Captain Juan Goncalves (known as Zarco, the
one-eyed). In July 1420, he and his crew landed on this island of magnificent wooded
mountains, some rising to 6,000 feet above sea level.
The island became a key stopping point for shipping trade between North America and the
Caribbean because of favorable ocean wind currents that made shipping much more
predictable across the Atlantic. Ships would fill their water casks and take on wine casks for
profitable trade and increased ballast.

Into the present day…

One of the early joys that I experienced in my wine career was representing one of the oldest
names in Portuguese wine history. The Madeira wines of Cossart Gordon date back to 1745,
and they have been a part of American culture since before our Revolution. The wine company
that I was working for had re-established their import company (U.S. Import License #1, by the
way!) and it was off to a roaring start, particularly with its French and Portuguese offerings. Our
Bordeaux portfolio was extraordinary, as was our Rhone portfolio. We were also well stocked
with wines from the Iberian Peninsula. I had the pleasure of working with Peter Symington early
on in this endeavor; the Symington family was leading the way with several Portuguese firms,
including the Port wines of Graham’s, and Warre’s, and the Madeira wines of Cossart Gordon.

Like Spain’s Sherries, Madeira and Port wines are typically fortified with grain-neutral spirits or
brandies. This holds true with most of the wines coming from the island of Madeira. (Recently,
some very decent, non-fortified table wines have been making their way onto the wine lists of
better restaurants.) A significant difference from Sherry, however, is the way that Madeira is
finished prior to being bottled. Port and Sherry are aged much like other great wines: cellar
aging in barrels in a cool, dark, moderately humid environment before being bottled at the
winery. The biggest difference is that the producers of Madeira discovered that their wines
significantly improved when their wines were subjected to Equatorial temperatures while still in
barrel. This was certainly a departure from how other wines were treated, and completely
changed the consumers’ expectations for what to expect in that bottle of Madeira.

As Hugh Johnson recounts, in his outstanding book, “Vintage: The Story of Wine”: “An early
witness to the effect was Christopher Jefferson, in 1676, whose ship, on the way to St Kitts in the
Windward Islands, was chased into Funchal roads [a seafaring term for recognized shipping
routes from Madeira to the North American ports] by a Turkish privateer and nearly came to

grief. The drenched Jefferson was revived by the restorative and anti-rheumatic virtues of old
Madeira. (It is surprising that the wine he was given was old) and he discovered, when he
arrived in the West Indies, that “there is no commodity better in these parts than Madeira
wines. They are so generally and so plentifully drunk, being the only strong drink that is natural
here, except brandy and rum, which are too hot.” At this stage, most Madeira was still an
ordinary beverage wine, made in September, racked in December or January and shipped out as
soon as possible to be drunk within the year.”

Aging Madeira

As mentioned earlier, Madeira is aged differently than virtually all other wines. Madeira wine
production typically requires that the wines need to be heated in their barrels to replicate the
effects of a long sea voyage through tropical climates. The most common process, known as the
estufagem process, is a technique in which artificial heat is used to accelerate the aging process
of the wines. Estufa means hothouse or stove in Portuguese.

The process used for the highest quality Madeiras is called Canteiro. In this case, the wines are
aged without the use of any artificial heat. The wines are stored in their barrels in warm rooms
that are heated only by the warm climate of Madeira Island. In cases such as Frasquiera
(vintage) Madeira, this heating process can last from 20 years to even more than one hundred
years! (You can’t kill Madeira!)

The “Noble Varieties”

Another great distinction for these wines is the grape varieties used in their making on this
subtropical island. At the top level, Malmsey reigns supreme; This style of wine is characterized by its dark color,
rich texture, and coffee-caramel flavors. The Malvasia (Malmsey) grape has naturally high levels
of acidity in the wine, which balances high sugar levels so that the wines don’t taste cloyingly sweet.
Then comes Bual; it is almost as luxurious as Malmsey. Its style is characterized by its dark color,
medium-rich texture, and raisin flavors. Bual is followed in this hierarchy by a moderately dry wine grape: Verdelho. This style of wine is
characterized by smokey notes and high acidity. Then comes Sercial. This style of wine is characterized by high-toned colors, almond flavors, and high acidity. Some say that Sercial is like Riesling, especially in that it can be incredibly

long-aged.

Other Noteworthy Madeira Types:

Rainwater Madeira is one of the largest-selling styles of Madeira in the U.S.; most generally
drunk as an aperitif. It is almost always an inexpensive medium-dry style made entirely from
the Tinta Negra grapes and aged for around three years including a period in an estufa, giving it
that characteristic Madeira richness.

So, how do I best appreciate this historic beverage?

Well, of course: you should pour yourself a glass and sip it appreciatively! The various styles of
Madeira lend themselves to some of the same rules that one might follow with fine Spanish
sherries.

For the richest, longest finishing, and deepest flavored Madeiras, i.e., the Malmseys, think of
topping off a great meal. It can easily pair with an apple gateau, or plum pudding, or rich
custards, as in Crème Brulé. It is also a fine companion to a good cigar. And it is certainly
pleasant enough to be enjoyed all by itself!

For Bual, which is lighter and slightly less sweet than Malmsey, it is still obviously a dessert
wine. Sometimes, a smoky note steals its way in to modify the richness of the Bual.
Verdelho – a shade less sweet than Bual – produces a soft and quaffable wine. It has a slight
honey and distinct smokiness that makes it delightful either before or after meals.

Sercial is the driest of the Madeiras. Its wines tend to be light, fragrant, and slightly sharp –
things which are reminiscent of Riesling, but with a Madeira “zing”. It is a bit bigger than a fino
sherry, but still a delightful aperitif.

In recent decades, the Madeira trade has benefited from a splendid marketing decision. More
than half of the existing producers have combined their efforts and offices under the trade
group, “Madeira Wine Association”. Together, they are having measurable success in re-
establishing Madeira as one of the noblest products of the vine. It is a wine that no other
country or region can match.