The Fairy Tale of Alsace
By Amy Lively Jensen
Having a hard time choosing between France and Germany for your next trip? Why not do both at once…in Alsace. The region of Alsace, France which borders Germany has been fought over by both countries for centuries. A blend of cultures, food, wine, architecture and art makes Alsace a unique and fascinating area. Bordered by the Rhine River and Vosgues Mountains, cozy fairytale villages dot the glorious landscape. Alsace is famous for the Wine Route, which winds through lush vineyards that produce world-class wines. Castles, cathedrals, art, museums, historical sites, cycling and hiking routes, and stunning nature add to the region’s allure.
The wines and villages of Alsace draw over eight million visitors each year, and many come to sample lovely Alsatian wines, characterized by their acidity and rich texture and can range from dry and light to sweet and full-bodied. Seven main grape varieties make up the bulk of the wines: Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, and Crémant d’Alsace.
Alsace has 120 villages featuring bucolic landscapes, exquisitely preserved architecture, and savory French and German traditional dishes. Every village has something special to offer. Among these villages we chose seven exceptional “not to be missed” places on your journey through Alsace.
The beautiful city of Strasbourg is the capital of Alsace, its largest city and France’s seventh largest. From its rich history and stunning architecture to its vibrant cultural scene and picturesque canals, it has delightful, big-city energy. With a rich history dating back to the Roman Empire, Strasbourg has been the center of culture, politics and trade for centuries. As a hub for international politics, it is a proud symbol of democratic values as the home of the European Parliament and the Council of Europe.
This dynamic city is famous for its stunning Gothic architecture. Looming over the town center, the Strasbourg Cathedral of Notre-Dame took nearly three centuries to build, beginning in 1015. It is an absolute masterpiece of Gothic art, both gigantic and delicately intricate. Its pink sandstone allows for sculpting the stone lace of the façade and the intricate statuary. The façade slightly changes colors as the hours go by, depending on the weather and sunlight. A popular curiosity in the Cathedral is the astronomical clock. Animated characters representing the different phases of life and death decorate the case and move at different points in the day, making for a mesmerizing spectacle. Inside the Cathedral you’ll marvel at the imposing and magnificent rose window and 12th and 14th century stained glass windows. A spiral staircase twists up to the 217-foot-high viewing platform at the top of the bell tower. The reward for climbing 332 steps is a 360-degree view of Strasbourg.
The heart of local life is the Grande Ile, an island on the River Ile in the historic center of the city. Nearby is Petite France, a picturesque area with charming houses and cobblestone streets intertwined between canals. It has been described as a “half-timbered heaven” for the colorful historic houses with overflowing flower boxes. Taking a leisurely stroll, you can enjoy the canals while appreciating the reflection of the colorful facades of the homes. Restaurants, cafes, small shops, patisseries and covered bridges bring a special ambiance to this cityscape.
A boat trip is a must for your Strasbourg visit; perhaps a sightseeing cruise on your first day in Strasbourg so you can get oriented. Walking tours are also a good option.
Strasburg was founded by the Romans in 12 BC and has changed nationalities four times, bouncing between France and Germany. In 1539 the world’s first documented Christmas tree was set up in the Cathedral of Notre Dame. That may be one reason why the city’s Christmas market is so famous.
Although there will be many winery tours and tastings along the Alsace Wine Route, there is one wine cellar in Strasbourg that holds historic significance. Cave Historique des Hospices Civils de Strasbourg offers a unique wine tour in the caves of the hospital. Its underground urban wine cellar holds the oldest wine in the world kept in a barrel. It dates from 1472 and has been served only three times in five centuries.
Nestled among vineyards, mountains, traditional houses and canals, the enchanting southern town of Colmar gives visitors an exciting glimpse of 1000 years of European history. It is a photographer’s dream, with its labyrinth of cobbled lanes, flower-lined canals and timber-framed houses painted in a rainbow of pastel hues. As a gateway to Switzerland and Germany, Colmar Wine Country is the Capital of Alsatian Wines. With vastly contrasting terrain, from plains to mountains, it boasts 37 wine-growing communities and 30 Grands Crus.
Strolling through Colmar, you’ll find a good number of buildings of great interest. This includes the famous “Maison de Tetes” covered with over a hundred animal heads and faces. Petite Venise is an especially attractive part of town. It’s like a tiny Venice with colorful houses by the water.
Colmar is known for its plethora of outstanding museums. An unmissable stop is the Musee d’Unterlinden which houses Matthias Grunewald’s gripping Isenheim Altarpiece. It is a series of two-sided paintings on hinges that pivot like shutters. It shows an intimate drama of Jesus’ suffering and then death. It is one of the most powerful paintings ever produced.
Colmar will delight you with the quality of its shops and boutiques offering “made in Alsace” products. Food lovers will enjoy the permanent Covered Market in the heart of the old town. In the lively atmosphere of a 150-year-old building, you can peruse this gourmet market’s fromagerie which is one of the most famous cheese dairies in Alsace. The produce vendors offer beautiful displays of the freshest and ripest fruit and vegetables, along with a cadre of other exceptional merchants. You can easily find delectable souvenirs to bring home. Some of the specialties are Alsatian wines, craft beers, brandies and liqueurs, gingerbread, Munster cheese, Bretzles (a traditional Alsatian biscuit sprinkled with sea salt and caraway seeds which is usually accompanied by beer), Bredele (Alsace’s Christmas cookies), jams, honey and chocolate. You can also have an inexpensive breakfast or lunch at small cafes and restaurants or relax with white wine in a brasserie. Another option is to choose picnic foods to enjoy at the eating area or a park.
Using Colmar as a springboard, it’s easy to tour the region. Following Alsace’s famous Wine Route called Route du Vin you’ll experience 105 miles of verdant vineyards, quaint and colorful villages, imposing castles and feudal fortresses. Biking is a favorite way to enjoy the Wine Route. While there are many flat areas, riders may prefer to rent an electric bike for the hills.
To taste wines along the Wine Route, look for signs saying “Degustation.” One winery to visit is Domaines Schlumberger on the steep flanks of the Vosges Mountains in Guebwiller. The Schlumberger vineyards are the largest in Alsace and have the distinction of owning the largest acreage of Alsace Grand Cru vineyards. The luscious Schlumberger wines are renowned for their richness, full body and flavor with a delicate sweetness balanced by excellent acidity. At the estate, detailed tours are available of the cellar and century-old vats. You can also take a 4x4 ride to learn about the vineyards. The tasting is in their sleek, modern Wine Center.
Another highly regarded winery is Zind-Humbrecht in Turckheim. A portion of the land has been passed down through the Humbrecht family since 1620. Their voluptuous wines are crystal clear and balanced with intense flavors. To make choosing their wines easier, Zind-Humbrecht has a dryness scale on all labels. It goes from 1 to 5, with 1 being bone dry to 5 being highly sweet. Be sure to make an appointment for a fantastic tasting in a beautiful venue with friendly staff and exceptional quality wines.
Traveling from Colmar, you quickly arrive at Eguisheim, an enchanting town that has consistently been ranked on the “Most Beautiful Villages in France” list since 2003. It also holds the highest award for its town garden planting. In the summer, you’ll find flowers on every window, every building and every street corner. Eguisheim has managed to preserve a wonderful medieval atmosphere. The winding cobblestone streets lined with brightly colored half-timbered buildings are all built in concentric circles around a 13th-century octagonal castle.
Eguisheim is described as a fairy-tale-like town, and it literally is. The Disney classic film Beauty and the Beast took its inspiration from the streets of Eguisheim to create Belle’s village. Eguisheim is a must-see for fans of this movie.
Let yourself be seduced by the nearby town of Kayerserberg. No doubt you will be like a gleeful child taking photos at every turn. The intoxicating aromas of gingerbread and pastry float through the streets. The most breathtaking view is from Chateau de Kayersberg, the ruin of a medieval castle that looms high above the village. It is worth a 15-minute climb to soak in a stunning view of the village and the vineyards.
In the village of Riquewihr every house is a beauty. You’ll feel the warmth of it as you explore. Friendly shopkeepers offer samples of their cheeses, macaroons, nougat and other specialties. Several shops sell wine paraphernalia for special memories of your venture on the Alsace Wine Route. Although Riquewihr is quite tiny, it boasts of three Michelin-starred restaurants. AOR La Table le Gout et Nous is praised by Michelin reviewers for surprise menus of superb food and the bohemian laid-back ambiance. They recycle old LPs and CDs as placemats.
At the foot of the Vosgnes Mountains is Ribeauville. Here you will experience the dedication to preserving traditions…even the garbage collectors do their work by horse and cart. Take the opportunity to try Choucroute, the national dish of Alsace. This is sauerkraut infused with Alsatian wine, rich in goose fat, fragrant with juniper and heaped with glistening slabs of pork and sausages. And just in case the kraut and meat aren’t enough, little buttery golden potatoes add bites of pure deliciousness.
In Ribeauville and throughout Alsace, you’ll regularly see majestic storks sitting on their nests on the roofs of houses, church bell towers and other elevated places. They are a symbol of Alsace and are thought to represent good luck, wealth and fertility. Look up and you will witness these graceful birds silently gliding with the winds with their long red beaks and black-tipped wings. As a part of local people’s cultural heritage, it is said that when there are plenty of storks in spring, you know it will be a good harvest in autumn.
A journey to Alsace is a magical experience that is not to be missed