Combining Passions
Issue By Jeffrey M Kralik P.h.D.
It is perhaps no coincidence that many of the world’s best wine regions are also some of the best spots in the world for cycling. Many wine regions are far outside metropolitan areas, feature varied, often hilly or mountainous terrain, and boast temperate climates for the majority of the year. Add the fact that many wine professionals (including yours truly) are avid cyclists, and a vacation that includes both wine tourism and cycling makes sense on many levels.
All cards on the table, I am biased. My love for wine was born out of my love for cycling and travel which I was able to combine for many years as a European cycling tour guide. I was a teacher at the time (first high school then college), and while I probably should have tried to make more money over the summer, riding a bike through some of the greatest vineyards in the world seemed like a fabulous way to spend June, July, and August.
Europe
The wine cycling routes of Europe have been well-established for decades and Tuscany, Piedmont, Burgundy, and Rioja should be at the top of any wine-loving cyclist’s bucket list. Much of the continent is conducive to cycling, however (there are three pretty big bike races in France, Italy and Spain every year), and since most regions also produce wine, well, it is tough to throw a dart at Southern Europe and not end up in a place that is great for both.
My choice? One could argue that the greatest wine regions in the world are in France, but it would be a healthy debate as many other countries produce fantastic wines. What is not disputable is that the greatest sparkling wines are made in Champagne. Sure, they are a bit pricey and many of its consumers can be pretentious, but the wine is magnificent. Yet so is the cycling.
While most of the focus in the region is on the area between Epernay in the south and Reims in the north, there is good cycling to be had starting as far west as Château-Thierry along the Marne River and as far south as Troyes in the Aube region. The “Route des Grands Crus” starting in Ay and circling the Montagne de Reims is some of the most beautiful vineyard cycling in all of France with rolling hills, tiny villages, and little automobile traffic.
Where to stay: Reims is a fantastic city both as a hub of the Champagne wine scene and as one of the most historically significant cities in France; nearly all of the kings of France were crowned in its cathedral, which also boasts one of the best outdoor sound and light shows in the country.
Not to be missed bike ride: Climb the Montagne de Reims. It’s much more of a glorified hill than a mountain, but you will likely not see a car and the Faux de Verzy is a forest that seems to have come straight out of Narnia.
Wineries to visit: Visit at least one big house (I like Pommery and Piper-Heidsieck) and at least a few of the tiny producers along just about any route (look for the word “Dégustation” which means “Tasting”).
United States
Similar to Europe, many of the cycling/wine hubs on the West Coast of the U.S. have been well-established by enthusiasts for years: Sonoma County, Santa Barbara County, and the Willamette Valley all come to mind. All have their charm; Healdsburg is at the center of three major wine regions, Solvang should be experienced by every lover of Pinot Noir and Sideways, and McMinnville might be the best wine town in the country.
My choice? I have been a few times now and Walla Walla, Washington is perhaps the best-kept secret when it comes to combining cycling and wine tourism. The town itself seems much bigger than its population, with a bevy of excellent dining choices, hotels at several price levels, and over 120 wineries. The Walla Walla AVA crosses the border into Oregon and is within a healthy ride of some of the peaks of the Blue Mountains, known as the “Alps of Oregon”.
Walla Walla is best known for its red varieties, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Merlot leading the charge, but white wine production is increasingly important, with most of the focus on white Rhône (Viognier, Grenache Blanc) and Iberian (Albariño) varieties.
Not to be missed bike ride: North of Walla Walla, just beyond the town line, the hills of the Palouse unfold and I find them stunning. Wheat fields for miles and miles, verdant in the spring, golden in the fall.
Wineries to visit: Where to begin? Sleight of Hand, The Walls, Gramercy Cellars, Doubleback. There are just so many good producers.