For those of us of a certain age, few grapes have endured as undeserved a reputation as Merlot.

Although Merlot is beloved by many for its accessibility, approachability, and as a factor in some of the most revered and expensive wines on earth, ever since being backhanded by Paul Giamatti’s character in the 2004 Oscar-winning film Sideways, Merlot has had a bit of an undeserved bumpy ride.

Merlot is believed to have originated in the Bordeaux region of southwestern France, where it has been cultivated for centuries alongside its more famous sibling, Cabernet Sauvignon. The parentage of both grapes has been traced back to Cabernet Franc, making the two varieties half-brothers in the viticultural family tree. With its plush tannins and forward fruit softening the austerity of Cabernet Sauvignon, this shared lineage helps explain why Merlot so often plays the supportive role in Bordeaux blends. Merlot also shares DNA with Malbec and Carménère.

Merlot takes its name from the French word for blackbird, merle. The grape was known as Crabatut Noir from the 14th through 18th centuries, at which point it became known as Merlot — perhaps because the birds liked to eat the grapes, or as a reference to the grape’s deep blue-black color when fully ripe.

Merlot grows best in full sun, well-drained soil, and a climate that is warm enough during the day to ripen the fruit, but cool at night. The vines ripen earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon, and they thrive in cooler clay-rich soils. These dense soils provide moisture during dry spells without staying waterlogged, and help give the wine its full, soft tannins. This characteristic makes it the dominant grape of Bordeaux’s Right Bank, where the heavy clay soils in the districts of Saint-Émilion and Pomerol suit it perfectly. On the other side of the Gironde estuary in the famous communes of Médoc and Graves, Cabernet Sauvignon reigns, with Merlot playing second fiddle in the Left Bank blends.

Nowhere is Merlot’s potential more dramatically realized than in Pomerol, a small plateau northeast of the town of Libourne. Wines from Pomerol are dominated by Merlot (often 80% or more), with the star being the Moueix family’s Pétrus estate. Their 100-point-rated 2022 vintage has been described as “liquid cashmere” and a “wolf in sheep’s clothing.” A bottle can be had for as little as $6,000, and will cellar for up to 45 years.

Happily, for those of us with more modest bank accounts, Merlot has spread to virtually every wine-producing region in the world, its character adapting to a wide variety of climates and soils.

In California’s Napa Valley, warm growing conditions produce Merlot with deep concentration, saturated blackberry and plum fruit, and velvety textures. Napa Merlot at its best can rival the soft, velvety, sensuous depth and aging potential of good Bordeaux Merlots.

Washington State, with its more dramatic diurnal temperature swings in the Columbia Valley, produces a distinctly different style: more structured, with bright acidity that gives the wine freshness and precision alongside Merlot’s characteristic soft tannins.

Italian winemakers have also done very well growing and producing Merlot. In Tuscany, producers began planting Merlot vines in the 1970s and 1980s, creating the category of wines known informally as “Super Tuscans.” As in Bordeaux, Italian Merlots feature prominently in both blends and single-varietal wines, and also in numerous proprietary blends that set aside traditional Italian grape regulations in favor of unbridled quality. In the Veneto, Merlot is produced in much larger volumes, often at the commercial end of the market, which has contributed to the perception in some quarters that the grape is somehow ordinary. It is not. It is simply versatile enough to be vinified badly as well as brilliantly.

In Chile and Argentina, Merlot planted in the foothills of the Andes benefits from intense sunlight at altitude combined with cold nights, producing wines with vivid color, ripe fruit, and sufficient freshness to prevent the flabbiness that can plague Merlot grown in hot climates. Chilean Merlot was, for many years, complicated by the discovery in 1994 that much of what had been sold as Merlot was in fact Carménère, which had been considered extinct after the 19th century phylloxera plague in France. So, a nearly extinct Bordeaux variety with a spicier, more savory, herbaceous character flourished in a protected climate and re-emerged. This revelation required extensive replanting and re-labeling, but it also gave Chile an entirely new flagship variety to promote.

Over the last 20 years, the rehabilitation of Merlot’s reputation has been gradual but steady. Much of the post-Sideways discourse about the wine has matured, as the appreciation for what these wines at their best can offer has returned. The grape’s natural qualities — generous fruit, soft tannins, medium-to-full body, and broad compatibility with food — have reasserted themselves as virtues rather than markers of mediocrity.

Yes, yes, yes: that broad compatibility with food.

At the table, Merlot’s food-pairing range is one of its greatest practical assets. The soft tannins that can make it seem simple as a table wine become an elegant complement to roasted meats, braised lamb, duck confit, wild mushroom dishes, and hard cheeses, to name a few foods that pair very well. Unlike Cabernet Sauvignon, which is typically more tannic and can clash with certain sauces or override delicate flavors, Merlot tends to cooperate rather than compete. It is a generous grape in this sense, as it is in most others.

Where Merlot really shines is when paired with foods that are moderately rich, savory, not too overpowering in flavor, and with earthy and umami notes.

A pretty reliable rule-of-thumb: if the dish has roasted meat, earthy mushrooms, or a little herb and fruit sweetness, Merlot will likely be a lovely pairing. Where some wines need acidity to stand up to certain foods, Merlot tends to do well with a mirror effect that highlights similar flavors in the food with which it is being served, rather than clashing with them. A marinated pork loin or filet mignon paired with Merlot can be absolutely orgasmic.

For vegetarian meals, Merlot pairs wonderfully with mushroom risotto, roasted or grilled vegetables, lentil stew, and eggplant Parmesan, and tomato-mushroom pasta.

Those who may not fancy themselves as foodies enjoy Merlot because it is usually smooth, fruit-forward, and easy to drink. Its softer tannins and velvety texture make it more approachable than many bolder red wines, especially for people who want richness without a lot of harsh astringency.

Those low-to-moderate tannins are a prime reason that Merlot is successful in winning over newer wine drinkers. It can feel rounder, softer, and less drying, yet still offers complexity for the experienced palate.

Merlot from warmer climates can provide a lush, juicy experience, while cooler regions tend to sport herbal and earthy notes. This range of styles can be just as appealing for those who appreciate the grape as for those who are just beginning their wine-tasting journey.

Likewise, for those on a budget, some surprisingly decent options can be found at Total Wine, Costco, Binny’s, or your local grocery store for reasonable prices.

And, of course, for splurge-worthy occasions and meals on the more robust side, Napa and mountain-grown Merlot as well as those Right Bank Bordeaux selections fit the bill wonderfully.